Cabinet parts & plans

[Ray (Flock Man)]

[Ray (Flock Man)]

The flock cabinet I use to do reflocks with. I ordered another clear box to make a second one so I don't have to change out the colors between reflocks. Until I get a better door setup I hot glued CD cases with a 4 inch hole in them for the doors I did this so I could keep the flock in the cabinet after use without it drying out too much or getting too damp from air mosture. 60 to 70% RH (relative humidity) is best for flocking.



www.flickr.com/photos/flockconcepts/3994155421/in/photostream/

[Ray (Flock Man)]

PARTS!

[actiontony]

I have it all together, but should I leave the gen and wiring on the outside or put it in something?
thank you
A T

[Ray (Flock Man)]

See where the ground plate angles 45 deg. behind that wood piece is the generator. This way the whole unit is self contained and to some extent portable. On this model the clear acrylic box breaks in to pieces which makes it easier to clean. on my other box it is a lid type which I hepa vac out after removing the buck of the left over flock fiber. Using a crisp new vac for clean up will let you recover the most fiber. I say clean and new on the vac because you're not going to want flock that's mixed in with house or workshop crud.
The commercial cabinets have a flat ground plate, but in my tests the best results came from a ground plate with 45's on each side so the build up of fliber doesn't stay in the corners. Ideally 45's on all sides would prove to be even better.

Other side notes from experience make sure your wires ar sealed up well. flock can get into the smallest places and short out your unit. You'll think it died, but in fact it just shorted out because of a small fiber. On the same note keep your flock away from electric items like a computer or even a microwave. It can be sucked in and short out things. When I started doing this I worked at the kitchen table and flock got inside everything. This was one reason why I switched from the hand held to the cabinet. Lost flock= lost $$$ so contain & recover the best you can.

[Flock dude]

So you know you can get this a Donyor for less money? I don’t want to bust your bubble ,but they have it and glue and devices to apply it.
Flockdude

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Oct 9, 2009 20:40:10 GMT -5 @Flock dude said:

So you know you can get this a Donyor for less money? I don’t want to bust your bubble ,but they have it and glue and devices to apply it.
Flockdude

This basically doesn't apply anymore because I no longer sell fibers, but I leave these old posts so others can see how this whole project developed over time. It's funny to see things posted that seemed to matter at one point, but no longer mean anything.

Wow! As if we didn’t all know they sell flock. Hell, I even posted their link on our website. Yes they have all those things and as stated before many times be our guest and go that route, then in six months come on back and tell us all how much you’ve spent and how long you’ve waited and how many emails and calls that were never answered.
See you won’t because it'll prove us right, but that’s the path your starting down and it’s been a route that all of us flockers have gone down. It's easy to sit back and dismiss something.
Donjer has flock in house, but not Vintage size. (they have flock powder and 1mm {1mm is the size of HOF duke flock or the red head walmart KFG joe} vintage is different and has to be made and if your not buying a Sh*t load it’ll take forever for them to reset their cutters to make it for you if they will even bother.)
They have adhesive (basically relabeled acrylic and or rustoleum paint)
They have flocking units (which would you like the $700 or the $1000 model.
AM I knocking them in any way??? No. they, have a market for what they sell and have worked on GI JOE in the 90’s AND they have a business to run and money talks BS walks.
We are not trying to replace or even compete with any flock supplier or retailer. We are not making a killing on this or trying to. We’ve just found something that works and doesn’t look out of place next to vintage GI JOE.
I know others that would rather go their own route and that’s fine. That’s not our concern and I wonder why ::)it’s the nay say’ers concern on what we are selling or trying to do on this.
I have a theory on the negative reaction of all this by some. How I figure it is, hardcore collectors poo poo reflocks because if they don’t it’ll lessen the value of their collections if not just in price tag, but in bragging rights. Internet sellers poo poo reflocks or repairs because they do not want anyone to be able to reflock or repair beat up joe’s because then their high priced items will sit unsold if people are happy buying beat up balding joes and repairing them. Reflockers may be unhappy because they have had the market to themselves forever .
The fact is everyone should have an option to reflock or repair these beaten down GI JOES . If this makes collectors happy and more involved all the better. You know, not everyone has the funds in this economy to buy $200 to $1000 GI Joes . So if they learn how to reflock, then buy some flock and repair a bald Joe and are happy with him- where is the harm ? On this end I see more positive results from buyers than negative ;D, but it seems that those who dismiss all this are louder or bolder :-*and I wonder why that is??
GI Joe is GI Joe. What ever size shape or form. GI Joe is not just a GI nurse worth big $$$ (note worthless to me even though for status I own two). If GI Joe makes you happy as a collector (in what ever form it is) that’s all you can ask for out of this hobby .
Funny, my mother said my reflock quest started when I was 6 years old. I said, why?
She reminded me of how I used to ask the barber for my hair clippings and would take them home chop it into fuzz and glue it on my GI Joe heads.
That quest was always put on hold because of expensive equipment, but now it’s offered to everyone mostly for free with a small investment in parts, supplies, and time. ;D

[chris]

Do not sweat the negative Nellie’s. those of us that learned how to do flocking know it’s a great and long over due tool to have in our collector tool belt. I bought 4 gijoes with rubs and now I have 4 mint looking figures. A tip I have that may be useful to others is that I saved the flock I stripped off a blond and re-used it on another with a rub in the front of the head it matched pretty good and looks very nice. I was going to sell it, but it’s to nice to sell. This cabinet will be my next task for sure. Thanks
Chris

[actiontony]

Thanks! for the tip. I'll put the gen. inside there. I thought of using the old flock on small rubs too.
I like your theory there ray. I just think some don't like anything to change is all. I bet that some are plenty po'd about this information getting out though.

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Just wish they would try it first. Hell buy the flock where ever, just try the system. On another note- I have learned how to dye the colors needed for two different types brown heads (the darker version that I like and what our land adventurer color mix is based on and the lighter version that some others seem to like.) Takes about 10 to 14 days to make a 1lbs mix. I need some things to make it easier. Need a press and a cyclone air dryer. I checked out the price tags for these and need to talk to my pal Gary to see if he can make them somehow.

[Happy Joe]

We're with you. My fuzz heads have never been better. I've filled in some and redid others. Just need to know about some white and how about grey???
See ya
DanC.

[Ray (Flock Man)]

My bud Gary came by the house and made a cyclone air dryer in 30 minutes out of a 5 gal. paint bucket and some air hose connections. Then he made a vacuum chamber out of a large lobster pot and PVC fittings that hooks to my shop vac. I wanted this for casting plastic parts to get the air bubbles out. He said he'll look around for parts for my press and I'll be set. The guy's a freakin wiz. As I write this I wonder if he can come up with a tow cutter so I can cut my own flock. Cutters I looked at are $6000+.

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Oct 14, 2009 0:29:26 GMT -5 Ray (Flock Man) said:

As I write this I wonder if he can come up with a tow cutter so I can cut my own flock. Cutters I looked at are $6000+.

I now have 100 lbs of undyed flock and 50lbs of dyed in the climate control box drying out. Small samples tested so far have come out with a better color match than the flock done by our former dye person. I knew if I could get a handle on the whole process I could do even better. Our dye friend is a great guy, but set in his ways and hard to budge on things. Now I think this next run of flock should be able to match 90 percent of the Joes out there and our mix packets will take care of the rest. My excitement level from 1 to 10 on these new mixes is 30+.

I am using 3 color examples from each vintage head (land, sea, air) to come in between all of them.
When I was having the flock dyed, I used one head from each that was in the shade I looked for in a Joe, but many are having trouble matching other shades from those base colors even though they still were awesome color mixes. I just can't wait to take some pic's of the new color mixes.
Stay Tuned!!!

[traud]

First off Don't worry about the nay sayers..their opinions are like a$$holes...everybody has one.

I personally thank you for your efforts you have put forth into the Flocking world. You have freely given advice and how to's and asked for nada in return...which is kind of rare to find in the repair aspect of this hobby.
When I first started flocking I was personally told to go "F" myself "I'm not telling yo how to do that" Some people just never bothered to get back to you. So it was alot of trial and error...specially on the flock color.
Anyway I say you're doing a great job and keep it up.

Now, my question.
In your flock box you have the ground wire and the other wire goes to the knob in the box. So their is nothing in the wand/pipe that the head is on...is that correct?
Right now I am using a hand applicator, with one wire going to the head and the other in the flock container. I'm just asking before I tear the hand flocker apart and create a flock box.

Traud

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Thank you!!!

I hear more positives than negative about all this, but the few negatives hurt this whole project the most.

I always say, "I'd be doing this anyway... so why not help others who want to, also!"

I have also received positive emails from some Pro-Reflockers who say good job keep going!

Yes, the ground is the plate and nothing is attached to the stick or head.
PVC seems to work better as the stick. In my case I use PVC tubing with a small wooden dowel in the end that fits the head better- since my tubing is a little wide for Joes neck.
Once the machine is on- if you put the head close to the ball or even touch the tubing to the ball the flock jumps into the glue. The more flock in the glue the stronger the loose flock jumps. Then just twirl the stick until it's very plush. keep going until you can't see any glue or in the case of clear epoxy- any wet surface.

At times the flock may get locked to the ground and the jump will slow down- when this happens switch off the power and fluff it up a bit and it'll start jumping again.
I've never found the need for grounding the head, but I've seen others who do this and I guess it's an option, but its really not needed. I have tried a metal tube and a all wooden dowel, but they didn't work the same for whatever reason.
Until you get the feel for it. I would practice with water base glue or plain water lightly brush on a test head. Each cabinet will have higher activity spots that can change as you go, you can see this as I move the head around the tray.

I went this route because I hate shaking the unit and turning the head. I watched the cabinet done in person and a tray version in a video. Once I saw how much easier it was, I quickly got away from the handheld. I envy the flockers that can use a handheld really well. It takes practice. I have mine still for spot repairs, but it doesn't get much use.

My suggestion is keep what you have and order a $4+ shipping (on sale last I checked) generator from Electronic goldmine and use it for the cabinet. It is wired differently from the 12volt model, but it works just the same. Just note: if you want on off switches etc. that they are rated for 120 volts- easiest way is to use a power strip that has a breaker etc. for safety.

I am going to build a cheaper model using a plastic stack tray from the dollar store. This one was put together because I wanted to be fancy and make it look more like the commercial model I've seen used by my teacher. I angled the ground plate so the flying flock falls back into the center- where on the pro model with the screen the flock gets trapped in the corners.

Truth be told I rarely flock with the cover on, so I basically use mine like Rob1's model.

Thanks
Ray

[fred]

Hi everibody,
I'm new here and first i must say that i'm French so please, excuse me for my poor English : school is so far :-)

For information, i'm the co-administrator of the new 12" action figures's French forum :
forumdugroupactionjoe.xooit.fr/index.php

Congratulation for this very interesting forum : there's a lot of information and i must confess that i don't understand all of them...

So, i've made the same box (thanks Ray for the plans) and now i've some questions :
Is there an importance about the distance between the crome knob and the ground plate ?
How to take off old flock ?
Where can i buy big bottles of flock ?
What is the best glue to use with it ?

Hope u'll be ok to answer me
regards
fred

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Is there an importance about the distance between the crome knob and the ground plate ?

Yes. The distance is in relation to the output voltage of the electrode (chrome ball). The higher the output the further away the ball needs to be. The electrode on my unit is flexible so I can move it around. Some lighter colored flock may work better with the ball closer to the ground plate- then darker colors you could raise it. Another member turns his electrode which is oval shaped to get it closer or further away. On my 30kV unit the ball is around 10 cm away. On the 7.5 kV unit the ball is about 5 cm away, but again they are movable so I can adjust that when needed.

How to take off old flock ?

I use denatured alcohol. You could use rubbing alcohol as well (it’s a bit weaker) Special note: Denatured alcohol will take off most repaints of the face and may take off the paint on many Action Man heads. It seems that the paint they used isn’t as tough as the U.S. Joes.

Where can i buy big bottles of flock ?

I buy from Donjer here in the States and have bought from the UK. I know that there are suppliers in the UK, Italy and maybe Spain. Our links page has some of them.

What is the best glue to use with it ?

I use a mixture with Nyatex epoxy as the base and I add MEK solvent and another type of epoxy as the filler. On softer heads I’ll prime with a polyurethane glue thin coat and use the epoxy over it when the primer dries or you can use the polyurethane glue straight and add a little MEK solvent to keep the foam down. If you’re in a dry climate the foam may not be an issue or if you put the flocked head in a dry box to cure. Dry box would be a warm box free from moisture.

The better clear acrylic paints can also be a good primer for softer type heads. Most doll heads are considered greasy and tough to adhere to, but epoxy does the job pretty good with proper preparation. I found that there isn’t a glue that I can’t get off easy because I understand the mechanics of adhesives pretty good now. A rough, clean surface is the best.
Overall if you are trying to remove the flock you will, but with normal wear and tear it’ll hold up perfectly. We’ve put the heads in the snow, water (fresh and salt), dirt, sand, you name it and the flock has lasted.

A note on boiling- Some like to do this to remove or return heads to a neck post, but know flock can start to stick and or melt at higher temperature’s (it’s plastic after all) so take care not to raise the temp. too high. I steam the neck or use a hair dryer around the neck only and it does the job. On a side note stubborn glue can be removed by boiling water, but over time can shrink the head a little. An old way to fix pin heads was to boil the head until soft and stuff the head tight and let it cool.

[fred]

Thanks very much for these informations :-)

[krogenar]

Wow, this site has a lot of great information!

Here's what I've been doing with flocking -- I don't use the flocking to reflock GI Joe figures -- I've been trying to flock keycaps for keyboards. I've met with some interesting results. The 'work' thread detailing my flocking can be found here: geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47194.0

I started out by using the tube flocker (air pushing method) and that gave me mixed results. I finally ended up washing and sanding the keycaps thoroughly (sanding, I discovered, was crucial) and then using an ElectroStatic flocker (the 'ScooterStick') with better, but still not perfect results. I produced a number of good spacebars and keycaps, but it was hard work. I'm hoping to make it easier to do a large batch.

What I really want is to have a flocking cabinet, so that I could flock with making such a colossal mess. And your cabinet plans, Ray, look perfect. My problem is -- I'm afraid I'll electrocute myself. How hard is it really to make one of these cabinets? I can solder fairly well (electronic kits and such), but I'm a little nervous about making a cabinet myself. What would it cost me to have you make one for me?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Ray (Flock Man)]

The main cost comes from the Basketball display box, I'm not sure of the current cost. Then it would be the electro-static generator- again since this was posted the costs have gone up quite a bit because the part is harder to find and many of them on ebay are wired quite differently, with many of them not having any wiring information. Much of this original stuff is left here for people to travel back in time and see where the whole project started. I fear some of the old posts have had there time and that time has since past because of harder to find parts. Back then the generators were a few bucks and I used to buy 3 or 4 per order.

[idrusa]

This instructions are great!!!
I found your forum searching on Youtube, you help me really so much. I'm not perfect with english... so hard to read and translate everything! But i'm going to do. I need to build a cabinet like this one to flock my "hommes" ^__^.
Just a question... wich of these ion generators could be ok for this project?

link

link

link

Thank you so much!

[Ray (Flock Man)]

I Italian-American, but sadly the language was lost with my grandparents.

Anyway- I would go with the 3rd option because it could run off 12volt DC power or even a 9 volt battery. This way if you wire it wrong some how it's not as dangerous as a 220volt unit.

If you or someone around you understands the 220 wiring of the 1st one Then that's the one I would buy.

With the 110 volt and the 220 volt there is no room for error so be warned. Know what you are doing!!!

[Jim B.]

I'm so glad I found this board!
About 9 years ago, my best friend asked me to move in with her elderly father, and take care of him.
One of the items found during the process was a vintage MOA with hard hands and darn good stringing, in need of two new feet and a new right calf...as well as a good reflocking.
Fast forward several years, and I managed to source replacement vintage body parts (yay eBay), vintage fatigues and gear...but his bald spots were beyond me.
Then, after finding this forum while searching for reflockers, I've decided to try to do it myself.
I will be building a cabinet flocker (got a good deal on a Negative Ion generator), and will be using the Van Dyke's clear flock adhesive you've reviewed.
I hope this forum is still active, in case I run into any SNAFUs

[ron bozzi]

What kind of ionizer should I buy ? The spec / nomenclature ? thanks

[redfred1]

Apr 30, 2019 17:31:14 GMT -5 ron bozzi said:

What kind of ionizer should I buy ? The spec / nomenclature ? thanks

I bought one like this...

www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-to-20000V20KV-High-Voltage-Electrostatic-Generator-Negative-Ion-Generator/172471107206?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D58f569313bf14bd7b2c0d4866e0a0873%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D233172709477%26itm%3D172471107206&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

works good.