Pre Made Flock Box

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Ray, I've heard you mention from time to time about a pre made flock box, and was wondering if you had a link to any of the companies that make them? All I've been able to find were a few different companies and they wanted up in the high hundreds & thousands for their "flock system" and one of them was pretty much the same as what I have and use at home... the hand shaker type...go figure.

Thanks

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Same here. So, I built another from scratch. It's a bit wider and I added a screw on shaker unit with a wide cup(hopper) so I have the option to use both when needed. I adjusts from 5kV to 30Kv, but again I don't use it past 10Kv or so.
The multi head unit flopped, well it was ok, but there were too many dead zones to deal with.

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Thanks for the pic. That is one cool looking setup you have there.

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Thanks it pretty cool and it was only $120 in parts instead of $5000 like the on in the below link!

en.maag-flock.com/content.php?id=72

This is the type my teacher uses.

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Thanks Ray.
In my search on the web I recall seeing that power supply...now I just have to remember where it was. If I'm correct it really wasn't that expensive & I can't remember if it is variable or not...?

[Ray (Flock Man)]

www.amazing1.com/hv-dc-power-supplies.htm
Has it.

Making it variable is in the input voltage. I think it's supposed to run at 25kV (25,000 volts) on the 14VDC supply, but using a (basically a dimmer switch) at the power source- in this case a 24VDC power supply, a toggle switch and computer case fan speed controller- you can bring the output voltage up or down. I want it lower around 10kV for the cabinet part, but up to 20+kV for the shaker part because I'm forcing the charge flock through a mesh screen. See the flock is charged enough to stand on end at 1kV, but you need it to stay charged long enough and strong enough to embed in adhesive and with a constant result. You could shake flock fiber around in tupperware and get it charged up, but for how long or uniformly? That's the trick.
Main thing is using High voltage wire and parts on all output voltages that are rated higher that you'll be using. This is the money part on something like this.
If running a 15kV (15,000 volts) and lower unit you could get away with insulating normal wire (for awhile) as long as the basic design keeps you away from the HV and your working with little or no amps, but once you go higher the HV doesn't stay contained for long without HV rated parts/wire.

I ordered the wire because I've watched the high voltage leak through layers of rubber, pvc, tape, and the normal wire insulation.
Now, the step down may not work on HV units that run off 120VAC because the initial charge might have to reach at least 110 volts to get it going (this is guess work on my part).
On the units that run off a DC power supply- they are made to run off of various battery inputs for field work so you can adjust this input and in doing so adjust the output.
Could this unit run at 35kV (35,000 volts) all the time? I'm not sure- it just may burn it out, but I'll keep it adjusted under it's max and go from there.
I keep stating the full voltages because we tend to look at the simple term 7.5kV as nothing really, but that 7.5kV is 7500 volts and 7500 volts is no joke with or without amps/current.
We've been working with this stuff for awhile now and have the respect for it, but others may not. None of this is for anyone who is unsure.
I'm very sure that those in the know could debunk half of what is stated on the forum with educated knowledge of High Voltage.
These are all things I have tried and worked on in some way with full knowledge that if I screw up it could kill me. I take for granted that others will work cautiously like I do. I test things with backup safety plans worked out. It may take me 3 or 4 hours of setup before even turning on a new project to see if it works right. Checking and rechecking. I'm a big "what if?" guy!
What if this blows up? Where can I shut it down if it goes crazy?

On another note (since I've been asked by many)... You really do not need the electrode ball. You could make or buy a shoe box sized tray put a metal plate in it (seal off all sharp edges with hot glue) and connect the HV to that plate. This is the electrode. Then ground the sticks that you put the Joe head on. The flock will jump from the plate towards the grounded head and stick in the adhesive. I opt for the electrode because my sticks are not grounded. They are not grounded because of volume. I have around 500 head sticks here. This is set up for speed, but if your doing a few heads here and there speed is not a factor.

[Ray (Flock Man)]

www.gammahighvoltage.com/html/series_es.html

Just another info/parts link!

www.highvoltageinfo.com/component.php?comp=HV Power Supplies&sub_cat=All

[mady0002]

Oct 28, 2011 16:54:14 GMT -5 Ray (Flock Man) said:

Same here. So, I built another from scratch. It's a bit wider and I added a screw on shaker unit with a wide cup(hopper) so I have the option to use both when needed. I adjusts from 5kV to 30Kv, but again I don't use it past 10Kv or so.
The multi head unit flopped, well it was ok, but there were too many dead zones to deal with.

hello.. how are you.. i hope you fine i hope you support me with the circuit design and components details of the machine of you
flockconcepts.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=downloadattachmentpage&board=static&thread=251&post=1353

[Ray (Flock Man)]

Sure, just remember me after you make your first million...